As a field expert in coastal geomorphology, I can explain the phenomenon of longshore drift. Longshore drift is the process by which sediments, such as sand or shingle, are moved along a coastline in the direction that the wind is blowing. This movement is primarily caused by the action of waves and currents, particularly when they approach the shore at an angle rather than directly.
When waves approach the shore at an angle, they create a
longitudinal current along the beach. The
wave refraction causes the waves to bend around obstacles and head more directly toward the shore. As the waves break, they release their energy and push water and sediment back towards the ocean, creating a zigzag pattern of water movement known as a
rip current. This back-and-forth movement of water results in the sediment being moved along the shore, a process we call longshore drift.
The rate of longshore drift can be influenced by several factors, including the
intensity of the waves, the
angle at which they approach the shore, the
shape and
size of the sediment particles, and the
topography of the coastline. In areas with strong wave action and a consistent wave direction, longshore drift can significantly alter the shape of the coastline over time.
read more >>