Hello, I'm an expert in coastal geomorphology, the study of the physical processes that shape coastlines. I can provide you with an in-depth understanding of how waves affect the beach. Waves are a significant force in shaping and reshaping the beach. Here's how they do it: 1. Erosion: Waves can erode the beach by removing sand and other materials from the shore. The constant motion of the water can wear away at the coastline, especially during storms when waves are more powerful. 2. Deposition: On the other hand, waves can also deposit materials, such as sand, pebbles, and even larger rocks, onto the beach. This happens when the energy of the wave decreases as it approaches the shore, causing it to drop its load. 3. Longshore Drift: Waves that approach the beach at an angle create a phenomenon known as longshore drift, which is the movement of sediment along the shore in a roughly parallel direction to the coast. This can change the shape of the beach over time. 4. Beach Profile: The interaction of waves with the beach creates a characteristic beach profile, which includes the foreshore (the area between the waterline and the beach) and the backshore (the area behind the beach). The beach profile can change seasonally due to variations in wave energy. 5. Coastal Structures: The impact of waves can also be seen in the formation of coastal structures like sand dunes, which can act as a buffer against wave erosion. 6. Climate Change: With the rise in sea levels and increased storm intensity due to climate change, the effects of waves on beaches are becoming more pronounced, leading to more rapid erosion and changes in beach morphology. read more >>

Rivers and Coasts - How coasts change. When the of the sea or waves is high (with big waves and rough seas), boulders and large pebbles can be moved. When the is low (with small waves), only sand can be moved. Waves have the power to erode, or break up, and wear away rocks over time.read more >>